The difference between the hatchback and the sedan installation is that for the hatch, you need to drop the exhaust (involving 4 hangers), and for the sedan you need to instead trim the bumper with two narrow slits. This review only pertains to the hatchback model.I've seen various viewpoints on whether this hitch is easy to install or not. For me, personally, it took about 1/2 an hour for the hatchback. The instructions are very straightforward, however there are two points where you can run into a snag- the actual removal and installation of the exhaust isolators (4 in total); and putting the trailer hitch into position.Regarding the removal of the rubber isolators, if you tried this without any lubrication, you're going to have a bad time- and I imagine this is where the bulk of the complaints lie. My recommendation is that you take either soapy water or WD40 with a straw, and spray liberally on each of the isolators where they connect on both the exhaust and the vehicle. Also insert the straw as far as you can into the hanger/isolator interface mounts and spray. Then wiggle the isolators around to ensure penetration of the fluid. Quite literally they should be soaked- don't be shy with the lube because this makes your life significantly easier. Once lubed, you can try wiggling them off by hand (if they're well lubricated they almost slide off with no force at all), or if they're still a bit finicky you can use a pair of groove and tongue pliers (channelocks) slightly offset to squeeze and slide them off the hangers. Alternatively, the manual suggests using an open end wrench and a pry-bar to squeeze the isolators off, which is also an option. Either way it shouldn't take much force. I found it much easier to install the hitch by removing the isolators entirely, and I also used a jackstand to support the weight of the exhaust after it's been lowered.The second snag you can run into is the actual positioning of the trailer hitch. I found on the driver side that there is actually a wiring harness that runs between the two bolted areas for the hitch. It was a bit painful having to 'slide' the hitch underneath that harness to prevent damaging it while also positioning the fishwires through each of the hitch mounts, but it can be done. DON'T remove the fishwires until the bolts are fully seated into the hitch and you're ready to bolt everything up. I would recommend using a jack and an assistant to help position and hold the hitch to the car rather than trying to bench press the hitch into position while tightening all 4 bolts yourself.Once you get through these two hurdles, you're basically done. Remember to lubricate the isolators again when reinstalling, and they should literally slide on with minimal force.As far as the hitch itself- I haven't had to test it to its 200 lb tongue weight or 2000 lb trailer weight limits, as I'm using this on our hatchback for a bicycle mount. So far it's proven sturdy for that task. The e-coat on the hitch also seems relatively durable- there were some scratches that occurred from where rocks and such hit it, but the paint is thick and seems difficult to fully penetrate. It comes with a ball mount and hitch pin, which is a nice bonus.There are a couple of other hitch options on the market from companies like Draw-Tite and EcoHitch. Most of them offer similar capability for tongue and trailer weights and mount in either essentially same spot or off the rear bumper beam. If you wanted completely unobtrusive, the rear bumper mounted options are best but as far as I know, all of them require trimming of the rear bumper for the receiver to stick out. This Curt hitch I feel is a pretty good compromise- it installs easily, is pretty cheap, requires zero modifications for the hatchback, is relatively unobtrusive; and when you do notice, it actually looks kind of good with its tubular main body (at least compared to the square tubed designs).